The name refers to the fact that the wine was both fermented and aged in stainless steel barrels. Made with Dijon clones from two different vineyards, it’s fruit-driven, nicely flavored, offering melon, apple and white peach in equal proportion. It’s a well-balanced wine, with clean, fresh flavors and just the right amount of acid to keep you reaching for the next glass.——P.G.(7/1/2009)—— 89