From a vintage that was a particular success chez Bouchard, the 2003 Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus wafts from the glass with a youthful mélange of sweet berries, cassis, dark chocolate and toasty oak. Medium to full-bodied, lively and concentrated, with powdery tannins and ripe acids, it's not especially complex, but it's aging very gracefully.

This signature wine from Bouchard comes from a vineyard that has been in the firm’s possession since the 19th century. It is fleshy and ripe, with huge, almost cooked fruit flavors. It is almost New World in its richness, almost too much for its own good, but is still very impressive. Imported by Clicquot Inc. ——R.V.(9/1/2005)—— 90