Il Poggione’s wines continue to change, evolving towards a slightly less mature style and offering more fruit and freshness. The 1999 Brunello di Montalcino presents much liquorice and tar along with the wild cherry-raspberry aromas, energy and drive on the palate, and a finish of good intensity. With a bit more flesh and fruit, this would be an excellent wine and, for a 200,000 bottle cuvee, it is impressive. Drink: 2005-2015. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, Il; tel. (847) 604-5723

Very balanced. Aromas of crushed plums and light asphalt open to a very fruity palate. Full-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a medium finish. This should develop nicely. Best after 2005. 12,000 cases made. -JS

This excellent wine represents a model for straddling the line between the past and current styles of Brunello. The cherry and raspberry fruit gets a kick from oak-based notes of charcoal and vanilla. Hold for at least four years, if possible. ——M.S.(6/1/2004)—— 93