The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino is a model of weightless finesse. Elegant and refined throughout, the wine offers up dark wild cherries, minerals, menthol and spices. The 2005 naturally lacks the sheer stuffing and richness of the finest years, but it has just enough density to balance the tannins nicely all the way through to the round, enveloping finish. I was a little surprised Il Poggione has decided to bottle a Riserva in 2005 as the addition of that juice would have almost certainly strengthened this wine, perhaps considerably. That said, this is another of the 2005 Brunellos that has come along beautifully in bottle over the last few months. The 2005 is a terrific Brunello to drink while some of the more important vintages like the 2004 mature in the cellar. In 2005 the harvest began on the 20th of September and finished on the 10th of October. Production was down roughly 25% in 2005 because of the challenging weather that year. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2030. Father and son team Fabrizio and Alessandro Bindocci are on a roll. Il Poggione remains a benchmark property for fine, traditionally made Brunellos capable of ageing exquisitely. I can’t think of too many properties in the world producing wines of this level at these prices with an established track record going back 40+ years. I tasted an extraordinary range of wines at the estate in January 2010, including all of the Brunellos and Riservas in cask from vintages 2005-2009. Fans of this venerable estate have a lot to look forward to in coming years. As of this writing the most promising vintage in barrel appears to be 2006. The Brunellos are fermented with the submerged cap method, a traditional style of vinification that is common in Piedmont, but not in Montalcino. The wines are subsequently aged in French oak casks, with the Riserva seeing a higher percentage of newer oak. Unfortunately, the 2008 Rosso had not been bottled as we went to press, but I look forward to tasting that wine in the near future.Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

This has a lovely nose of dried dark fruits, with flowers and sandalwood. Full-bodied, with chewy tannins and a serious amount of subdued fruit. Long and stylish. Chewy. Needs a little time in the bottle to come together. Best after 2012. 11,665 cases made. -JS