The 1997 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento is, as always, one of the last wines of the appellation to be released, and demonstrates the virtues, but also the limits, of the vintage. The garnet color is dark but beginning to mature, the nose of plums, truffles, and Mediterranean brush expansive and classic, and the palate is broad, very solid, firm and meaty on the flow and finish and with ample power in reserve. But the freshness, the fruit, and the vibrancy of less unrelievedly hot vintages are not there. Drink: 2005-2017.
Importer: Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY; tel. (516) 802-4700.