Pegau’s 1998 Cuvee Reservee is just opening up after a period where it seemed muted and uninviting. It’s a classic Pegau eclipsed only recently by the 2001, 2003, and 2007 Cuvee Reservee. Dark garnet with some pink at the rim, the wine displays the classic new saddle leather, garrigue, kirsch liqueur and blacker fruit notes, with some balsam wood, pepper and meat juices. It is full-bodied, broadly flavored, rich, with good acidity, and still some tannin to resolve. It can be drunk now as well as kept for another 10-15 years.