The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru opens in the glass with notes of citrus oil, musky peach, tangerine, nutmeg and buttered popcorn. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and incisive, it's chiseled and penetrating, with a tightly wound core of fruit and a racy spine of acidity. As readers will remember, this bottling hails from the three terraces on the hillside above Bouchard's La Cabotte, their bottling from the latter—which abuts Montrachet itself—being more muscular and powerful, whereas this cuvée is finer-boned and more ethereal.