This is a low-priced, yet exceptionally rich, concentrated 1999 Dehesa Gago. Pardon the pun, but readers will go gaga over this exceptional value. Made from 100% Tinto de Toro (the local clone of Tempranillo), it was vinified and aged in stainless steel tanks. A majestic fruit bomb, it boasts a dense ruby/purple color as well as an intense nose of melted licorice, creme de cassis, and flowers. Extremely full-bodied and unctuously-textured, with superb purity, this rich, gorgeously layered wine is almost too good to be true. The bad news is only 700 cases were made; the good news is all of it was shipped to the United States. Enjoy this beauty over the next 5-8 years, although it may last even longer. Readers should run, not walk, to their favorite wine merchant to grab a few bottles of this nectar. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

Ultrajammy, with intense ruby color and in-your-face grapiness, it’s hard to find more extraction at this price. Light- to medium-bodied, this is an easy-drinking but densely aromatic and flavorful red that is not at all inconsequential. It wraps up with a brisk, clean, dry finish showing light tannins.——M.M.(8/1/2000)—— 87