As so many tasting notes in this issue indicate, 1991 was an exceptional vintage in France's southern Languedoc-Roussillon region. Unlike most of northern France, this region had no problems with the rain that plagued many of France's vignerons. The 1991 Chardonnay reveals surprising power and richness, a big, flowery, apple butter-like nose, rich, solid flavors, and a gutsy, lusty finish. It should make delicious drinking for at least another year. Importers: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA and Blanchon Cellars, Ft. Washington, PA.

If you love oaky, toasty Chardonnays, this is for you. Appealing toasty coconut, a hint of orange and lemon, ending with a smooth and round finish. Great value. -