The outstanding 2003 Chester Kidder (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah and 10% Petit Verdot) is still a pup and has fabulous purity and freshness. Giving up lots of black cherry, graphite, tobacco and dried herbs, it’s medium to full-bodied, has no hard edges and is silky and polished on the palate. I believe its extended maceration (40 days) and 27 months in barrel have resulted in an incredibly stable, age-worthy red that will have two to three decades of longevity when all is said and done.

The second vintage of Chester Kidder is quite a different blend from the 2002—38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Syrah, 14% Merlot, 12% Cab Franc, 5% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot. Yet despite the obvious effort to craft a vinous all-star, to me it remains somewhat amorphous and a bit over-driven by the barrels. The dominant flavors are all barrel-derived—mocha, coffee grounds, toast—and the fruit, though sleek and polished, stands well in the background. Notes of berry are most prevalent; seamless but a bit anonymous—this wine is still looking for a unique identity. ——P.G.(3/1/2007)—— 89