The 2004 The Octavius is 100% Shiraz aged for 22 months in American and Hungarian oak, much of it new. Inky black/purple, it coats the glass with legs. It has an alluring perfume of toasty oak, plum, licorice, blueberry, bacon, blackberry, and a hint of chocolate. Voluptuous and youthful, it has intense flavors, plenty of well-concealed structure, and a 60-second finish. Cellar it for 8-10 years and drink it through 2035. Importer: Negociants USA, Napa, CA; www.yalumba.com

(South Australia) Hazlenut, blood, dark chocolate, prune, smoke, spicy oak and savoury bouquet. Traditional Barossa Shiraz - muscular and powerful, with complexity and melded tannins. Lingering mineral undertones. Drink: 2011%u20132020. Alc: 14.5%.

Quite possibly the best Octavius yet; features explosive Shiraz aromas of raspberries and peppery spice. Is the usual intense barrel treatment more restrained, or the fruit just that much more expressive? The texture is wonderfully lush and creamy, with an expansive mouthfeel and complex flavors of berries and spice that linger elegantly on the finish. Probably best from 2010–2020.——J.C.(11/1/2007)—— 94