Full and elegant, even plush, from the sexy butter, caramel, smoke and vanilla bouquet through the plum, tropical- fruit and dried peach flavors and chalk and mineral accents on the palate. There's great nuance here, as there always is with Salon. Though it's younger, this seems already softer and more forward than the 1985 and 1988 tasted last year. Drink now through 2010——W.E.(12/15/2001)—— 91