Acorn persists with this Italian variety despite the challenges. It’s dry and medium-bodied, with a silky texture and some hot acids. The flavors are of cherries and tobacco. Overall, it’s a clean country wine.——S.H.(6/1/2006)—— 84

Bone-dry, earthy and gritty yet not really tannic, this is one of those wines that goes with almost anything calling for a dry red. There’s a cherry tone and peppery finish that suggest tender beef. ——S.H.(8/1/2005)—— 84

This young wine is earthy, with a core of blackberry and Chinese plum sauce sweetness, although it’s really dry. It has a nice acid-tannin balance and is easy to drink.——S.H.(10/1/2004)—— 84

Made from Dolcetto, an Italian variety rare in California, this wine tries to struggle beyond an earthiness that’s unnaturally sweet. The result: The berry flavors are ripe, the acidity and tannins fine, but it can’t quite shake its rough, countrified edge. ——S.H.(11/15/2001)—— 82