This is the kind of California Pinot Noir Burgundophiles love to hate. It’s so full-bodied and fruity, so forward in currant, chocolate and licorice flavors, that it seems to have nowhere to go — a sin in Burgundy. And yet there’s no denying its immediate deliciousness. It fools the palate, now honey sweet, now bone dry, but always rich and spicy.——S.H.(8/1/2008)—— 90