Notes of bay leaf and lavender mark the nose of the suitably named 2019 Vacqueyras Grande Garrigue, a blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre and 5% Cinsault. Aged in a combination of concrete vats and older barrels, it's full-bodied and round in the mouth, with black cherries and plums framed by supple tannins that turn velvety on the finish.

The 2017 Vacqueyras Grande Garrigue combines dark notes of black cherries and cola on the nose, accented by a bit of resiny garrigue. It's medium to full-bodied on the palate, with a touch of astringent tannin on the finish.

While I've enjoyed previous vintages of this wine, the 2016 Vacqueyras Grande Garrigue is not entirely to my liking. It's got plenty of dense, concentrated fruit, but it's plummy and chocolaty, showing a touch of raisining and significant alcoholic warmth on the finish. Drink it over the near term.

The plump, sexy and fruit-loaded 2015 Vacqueyras Grande Garrigue offers a smorgasbord of Provencal aromas and flavors, with notes of blackberry jam, peppered meats, toasted bread and Asian spice all jumping from the glass. Similar in style to the Cairanne, yet with additional tannic grip, this full-bodied, supple and polished beauty is another no-brainer value from this estate to snatch up.

The 2009 Alain Jaume Vacqueyras Grande Garrigue is much more backward, displaying a denser blue/purple color, thicker, richer blue and black fruits, and hints of kirsch, lavender, and garrigue. Still grapy and unformed, but loaded with potential given its depth of concentration and richness, it will benefit from another 2-3 months of bottle age, and keep for 5-8 years. Grand Veneur is one of the most brilliant estates in Chateauneuf du Pape as well as the force behind the negociant wines sold under the Alain Jaume label. Virtually everything they produce has merit. Some of this estate’s 2009 red wines are just hitting the market as they are bottled early to preserve their fruit and freshness. I can’t say enough about the job Alain Jaume’s two sons, Sebastian and Christophe, have done with this estate. The impeccable attention to detail in the vineyards, the meticulous vinification, and the careful bottling benefit every consumer.Importer: Fran Kysela, Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228; Fax (540) 722-9258