The 2011 Brut Reserva is a blend of equal parts of Macabeo, Xarello, Parellada and Chardonnay, which is clean, pleasant, fruit-driven, not terribly complex but quite satisfying, with well-integrated bubbles and sharp acidity. Drink now. Albet i Noya is one of the pioneers in organic farming in Spain. The winery started producing organic wines in 1978. They produce a grand total of 1.2 million bottles, both still and sparkling. The latest news is that the sparkling wines will be sold under the Penedes appellation, leaving Cava as many other have done before. Importer: Opici Wines, Glenn Rock, NJ; tel.(201) 689-1200; www.opici.com

The 2009 Brut Reserva is an equal blend of classic Cava varieties but complemented by Chardonnay and aged on the lees for a minimum of 15 months. It has a light, slightly anonymous bouquet with grass clipping aromas. The palate is fresh and citrus-driven with a short, crisp apple peel finish. Drink now. Importer: Opici Wines , www.opiciwines.com

The imitation Champagne, the 1999 Brut Reserva, possesses a light-bodied, fresh, wheat thin and yeasty-like personality with well-defined bubbles, plenty of freshness, and a quick finish. This delicious Brut is Spain's version of an Italian Prosecco. Enjoy it over the next year. I have given this winery mixed reviews, but this offering unquestionably represents an outstanding value. Importer: Opici Wines , www.opiciwines.com

Fresh and snappy, boasting hints of fresh garden produce alongside limes and racy flavors of green apples. Lean and tart, with greater cut than many Cavas.——J.C.(12/31/2003)—— 84

The crisp, well-made 1997 Cava Brut Reserva does a good job of imitating Champagne at a fraction of the price. Light-bodied and fresh, with yeasty, citrusy flavors, it should be consumed over the next year. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767