A spectacular modern-style wine from an excellent vintage. It’s deep as night, almost opaque, with giant blackberry, licorice, coffee and bacon aromas. It offers gorgeous flavors of cassis, blackberry, coffee and tobacco, and then finishes smooth and long, with mouth-coating dusty tannins. It deserves all the superlatives you could throw at it, and in three to five years it will be even better than it is now.——W.E.(8/1/2000)—— 95