The 2009 Alto Adige Lagrein Lindenburg Tenutae Lageder is a gorgeous interpretation of one of the most beloved local red varieties found in Alto Adige. The Lagrein grape tends to show raw, sometimes rustic tones of plump cherry and inky black fruit. This wine presents some of those characteristics, but it also underscores the variety’s inner elegance and grace. It’s a medium-bodied wine with good acidity that would pair with grilled pork or lamb chops.

The 2007 Lagrein Lindenburg is bursting with energy. An exotic concoction of dark berries, spices, licorice, French oak and tar takes shape in the glass. This is an especially opulent, full-bodied style of Lagrein. Varietal notes take a back seat to an intense expression of fruit. This is a gorgeous, totally beautiful wine, but readers in search of a varietal Lagrein will probably fine more satisfaction elsewhere. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Alois Lageder now has two distinct ranges. The Alois Lageder wines are made from purchased fruit, while the Tenutae Lageder wines are made from estate-owned vineyards, many of which are farmed biodynamically.Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

The 2006 Lagrein Lindenburg emerges with a deep, baritone register of dark wild cherries, earthiness, herbs, spices and minerals in a seemingly weightless, elegant and totally polished expression of Lagrein. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. Importer: Dalla Terra, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-5405

Lagrein is an indigenous grape of the far north of Italy that remains deeply rooted in the hearts and history of the people who live there. This expression by the super-fussy and meticulous Alois Lageder shows beautiful harmony and bright fruit aromas followed by spice and chewy ripeness in the mouth. ——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 89