Alpha Estate A1 'Alpha One', Amyndeon, Greece

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The 2007 Alpha One is a blend of Montepulciano and Negro Amaro, both sourced from Alpha's Hedgehog Vineyard and aged in new oak for 18 months. This is one of the bottlings that demonstrates Alpha's split personality. Although the estate is generally viewed as a top producer of one of Greece's best indigenous red grapes (Xinomavro), it is also a committed producer of wines from international grapes, with quite good results. This is mouth coating, bright and persistent, with a tannic punch on the finish. Usually, you can count on Alpha to make wines with good structure, and so, too, here. Solidly put together, with fine depth yet underlying elegance, this lingers very appealingly on the finish. It seems odd to think of a Greek red from these grapes - but it works well here. If you are looking for an example of Alpha's touch with international grapes, this is a very good one, with better depth and cellaring potential than the Tannat, reviewed this issue. While the wines do have somewhat different styles, the Tannat being steelier and a bit lighter, bargain hunters might also want to note that the Tannat is less than half the price. There were 4,962 bottles produced. Drink now-2019. Note that the 2007 reds are released and currently in the marketplace. The 2008s were all bottled at the time reviewed, but are largely still being held back for bottle aging. They will be released sometime in mid to late 2011. Alpha is one of those hot estates that should draw consumer attention. Here's a chance to get in at the ground floor, more or less, with two fine vintages in 2007 and 2008. This winery has been considered to be a "comer" for awhile. It's fair to end that talk. They have arrived and are making terrific wines. They have their own style and the Amyndeon terroir is somewhat different than Naoussa, they say, which is the signature appellation for Xinomavro in Greece. Taking that all together, Alpha's wines are more refined and accessible than some of the more rustic versions of Xinomavro. Compare them to Xinomavro from Foundi in Naoussa, also reviewed this issue, and it seems not even to be the same grape. I've often compared Xinomavro to Nebbiolo, but with Alpha, Pinot Noir comparisons seem more apt. There is still attention to structure here and few compromises. The quality steadily improves and considering the small production levels on many of the wines, the output seems to be quite reasonably priced, too. Greek reds are justly acquiring more cachet and this Northern Greek estate is one very fine example of where the region is going.Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 549-6211

This Greek red blend has an appealing, pretty nose of plum, blackberry and cherry, followed by deep, full-bodied black fruit and spice flavors. Good acidity and round tannins add to its poise. An elegant wine that will appeal to most fans of bigger reds. ——S.K.(6/1/2011)—— 89

An unusual blend of 60% Tannat and 40% Montepulciano, the first from Greece (or anywhere), this has a beautiful nose of cured meat, fresh crushed berries, and vibrant vanilla. Tannat’s heavy tannins are present, as is plentiful acidity. Dark purple fruit and vanilla flavors are pure and modern, but this wine would be better if it wasn’t so tart. ——M.D.(10/1/2006)—— 86