The 2009 Syrah Old 900 is deeper, richer and more intense than the Toasted Slope, but the oak is also more dominant. There is plenty of length and persistence in the glass, but less in the way of varietal character or delineation, which is surprising, considering the Old 900 is 100% Syrah. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Alta Colina and proprietor Bob Tillman. The vineyards are just eight years old and, given the results over the last two years, I have every reason to think the best is yet to come.Tel. (805) 801-5989; www.altacolinawine.com

The 2008 Syrah Old 900 is dark, jammy and opulent. It, too, shows plenty of concentration but the 100% new oak comes across as a bit overwhelming. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Unfortunately I was not able to taste Alta Colina's 2009 reds, as they had just been bottled and the winery understandably preferred to give the wines time in bottle prior to showing them.Tel. (805) 801-5989; www.altacolinawine.com

The 2007 Syrah Old 900 is the densest, most textured of this trio. Its deep ruby/purple color is followed by notes of cassis, blackberries, smoke, camphor, and licorice. Impressively made, it is capable of lasting 7-8 years. Tel. (805) 570-7708; Fax (805) 541-8025