The 2008 Sangiovese shows plenty of varietal character in its expressive red cherries, licorice and tobacco but with Napa Valley warmth and shape. The wine’s volume and depth should allow it to drink beautifully for a number of years. This is an impressive California Sangiovese, something I can’t say too often. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Tel. (707) 253-2000

I’m no fan of California Sangiovese, but Altamura makes me a believer in what can be achieved. Aged 30 months in 70% new oak, from their own vineyard planted between 700 and 1000-feet above sea level, their 2008 Sangiovese has a dark plum/garnet color and a gorgeously sweet nose of new saddle leather, strawberry jam, cherries, menthol, and spice. The complex aromatics are followed by a surprisingly opulent, full-flavored, beautifully textured and concentrated wine that literally has to be tasted to be believed. If 95% of California Sangiovese producers had emulated this style, this grape would have been far more acceptable to consumers. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. This is an interesting, still somewhat under-the-radar, small producer with all dry-farmed vineyards and obviously impeccable winemaking.Tel. (707) 253-2000; fax (707) 255-3937

The dark plum/ruby-hued, seductive 2006 Sangiovese exhibits notes of sweet cigar tobacco intermixed with plums, balsamic, strawberries, and black cherries. Round, generous, medium to full-bodied, and disarming, it should be consumed over the next 4-6 years. Frank Altamura and I agree on the fact that 90% of a wine’s quality comes from the vineyard, and the winemaker accounts for 10% of the finished product. This huge 400-acre ranch in the Wooden Valley, nine miles northeast of Napa, has 65 acres of hillside vineyards. One of the most under-the-radar wineries in all of Napa, Altamura’s Sangiovese makes a mockery of all the mediocre Sangioveses produced in California. Altamura also produces a terrific Sauvignon Blanc that is aged in wood for 8 months.Tel. (707) 253-2000; Fax (707) 255-3937

There are 1,200 cases of the dark ruby-colored 2005 Sangiovese. Aged in neutral old wood, it tastes like a strawberry jam cocktail with lots of new saddle leather, spice, and underbrush notes. Medium-bodied and richly fruity with loads of character, it is a remarkable effort given how difficult it has been for this grape to achieve this level of quality in California. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Altamura continues to impress me, not only for their Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc, but also for one of the finest California Sangioveses money can buy.Tel. (707) 253-2000; Fax (707) 255-3937