From a relatively cool portion of that site, Alzinger’s 2006 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Liebenberg exudes ripe melons, sweetly-scented flowers, saline minerality and Sichuan pepper pungency. Luscious and juicy, almost puppy-like in personality, this was impossible to resist – and one can understand its having been bottled already in April – yet no doubt 6-8 years of bottle age will do it no harm.The most exciting collection I have thus far tasted at this address – like a number of those in the Wachau – departs from the script that was written very early, touting 2006 as a “Gruner Veltliner vintage.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Alzinger’s 2004 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Liebenberg smells of pear nectar and lavender. A pungent, slightly bitter herbal character, notes of resin, pepper and lavender perfume suffuse the glossy, relatively full palate. Ample glycerin helps to ameliorate the firmness of flavors and hint of bitterness in the finish. This needs to be allowed time to open up and hopefully will. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Chalk and spring onions can be discerned in the aromatics of the broad, expressive 2000 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Liebenberg. This medium-bodied wine reveals loads of rich mango, banana, and papaya flavors in its fresh, boisterous personality. It should be consumed over the next 6 years. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Martin Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300