Ambra’s 2004 Carmignano Riserva Vigne Alte is 70% Sangiovese, 20% Canaiolo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon aged for two years in oak. The lower percentage of Sangiovese and the addition of Canaiolo gives the wine greater depth and volume, though not necessarily more complexity, than the Elzana. Made in a round, ample style, its profile tends towards an expression of macerated cherries, spices, menthol and sweet toasted oak. It offers outstanding length and a more accessible personality than the Elzana, although I would have a hard time picking a favorite. In 2004 both Riservas merit close consideration. This is another classy, elegant wine from Ambra. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024.This is a beautiful set of releases from Ambra, a reference-point producer for fine Carmignano. In particular, readers won’t want to miss the single-vineyard 2004 Carmignano Riservas. The wines are aged predominantly in a combination of tonneaux and larger casks, which gives them a fairly traditional weight and texture.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411