The 2005 Langhe Rosso Fabio (Nebbiolo, Barbera) is a perfumed, layered offering laced with fragrant red fruits, flowers, tar, subtle French oak, spices and minerals. The wine flows with tons of length in a vibrant, energetic style. The finish is long and exceptionally pure. This is a wonderful effort from Oberto. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Various American importers, including: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500; Vinvino Wine Co., Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 463-7880, Worldwide Cellars, Minneapolis, MN; tel. (612) 378-0316

The 2004 Langhe Rosso Fabio reveals notable clarity and definition in is vibrant, perfumed fruit, sweet spices and toasted oak. Today the tannins remain a bit firm, but they should begin to melt away with another year or two in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019. La Morra is a village that is dominated by its two towering figures, Elio Altare and Roberto Voerzio, both of whom have had a profound impact on other producers. Tucked away off the beaten track from the center of town is Oberto. Despite keeping a much lower profile than many of his colleagues Fabio Oberto makes wines that can hold their own with the best producers, not just in La Morra, but in Piedmont. His range is consistently outstanding from top to bottom. Readers may also want to take a look at the reviews of his Dolcettos published in Issue 178. Importer: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500

The 2003 Langhe Rosso Fabio (60% Nebbiolo and 40% Barbera) reveals an expansive core of plump fruit and sweet toasted oak with excellent depth. Although a delicious wine, I increasingly have a hard time getting excited about these blends in a region where there is no shortage of great wines that express varietal characteristics with more purity. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2009. In a region full of outspoken, colorful producers, Fabio Oberto comes across as somewhat shy and introverted. Maybe that’s one of the reasons this estate remains less well-known than it should. Regardless, readers will want to give these wines careful consideration. In most vintages the Barolo Rocche is one of the finest wines from this vineyard. Importer: Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500