The 2009 Syrah Annie Camarda represents the latest of numerous Chris Camarda essays in this grape, each of which has been under the sub-label named for his wife. “Having made Syrah since 2003, I’ve stopped after this one,” announced Camarda to my surprise and dismay, “and I don’t know that I’ll make any more other than perhaps small amounts for particular reasons. Syrah is, for me, an okay grape, especially if you can keep it for 20 years, but I’m not really fond of it and don’t find it very interesting, although I’ve tried doing it a lot of different ways.” Fortunately, this minority attitude appears not to have rubbed off on the wine in question, which is lovely (and, incidentally, fermented with a high percentage of stems). High-toned evocations of buddleia, dark berry distillates, and tar make for a distinctively alluring aromatic display, and the corresponding palate impression, while rich and very finely tannic, offers admirable and for Syrah too seldom-achieved lift and inner-mouth floral perfume. Hints of smoke and salt add to the stimulation of a persistently juicy finish. I can’t fathom what prompted its author to impugn to Syrah a need for two decades’ cellaring, but I would plan on enjoying this one over the next 3-5 years and am willing to bet it will prove delightfully versatile at table. Over the nearly quarter-century during which manifestly talented and straight-talking Chris Camarda has been making wine under his Andrew Will label (on Vachon Island south of Seattle) his approach – which has always favored modest alcohol (if need be, via the tried-and-true method of must-watering) and elegance over flamboyance – has evolved significantly in method as well as in focusing increasingly on single-vineyard expression. Principle vineyards in question include his own Two Blonds (north of the Rattlesnake Hills); Champoux – in which he is one of the several winemaking shareholders; and no less famed Ciel du Cheval on Red Mountain. He used to extract via punch-downs in open-top tanks, with fermentation generally completed in barrel. Nowadays, Camarda utilizes closed tanks with a forced air system and his wines go to barrel at dryness. “I think the wines have more – and greater definition of – flavor” this way, he notes, “and they’re not as heavy.” Tel. (206) 463-9227

The 2005 Syrah Annie Camarda delivers a more alluring perfume of meat, game, bacon, blueberry, and violets. Layered, ripe, and creamy textured, this hedonistic effort should evolve for 3-4 years and drink well through 2020. Andrew Will, located on pastoral Vashon Island, was founded in 1989 by former sommelier Chris Camarda. His focus is on blended, Bordeaux-style wines from some of Washington’s finest vineyards. The wines are made identically, the differences among them reflective of that vineyard’s terroir. He also produces a Syrah named in honor of his late wife. Chris Camarda’s efforts with Syrah deserve serious attention. The Annie Camarda Syrah is a blend of fruit from the Champoux and Ciel du Cheval Vineyards, two of eastern Washington’s finest. Tel. (206) 463-9227; www.andrewwill.com