The 2006 Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Stella Retica is Nebbiolo from 50-year-old vines in the mountainous north of Italy. This is a delicate and feminine wine with pretty berry notes followed by pressed rose petal, very light spice, tar and licorice. It shows all the celebrated qualities of Nebbiolo in a much lighter and more approachable style. The wine is elegant and tight with streamlined tannins at the back.

The 2004 Valtellina Superiore Sassella Riserva Stella Retica is another gorgeous wine. It comes across as a bit more generous and expressive in its fruit than the Rocca del Piro, but with perhaps a little less aromatic nuance and complexity. Hints of tar, earthiness, mint and licorice linger on the subtle finish. The Stella Retica should continue to drink well for a number of years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Readers who enjoy traditionally made Nebbioli will delight in these wines from Ar.Pe.Pe, which is an acronym of sorts for founder Arturo Pelizzatti Perego. The Ar.Pe.Pe. wines capture the essence of what makes Valtellina a unique winemaking region. Even better, the estate releases many of these selections with a few years of bottle age, giving consumers the opportunity to drink perfectly stored wines with a measure of tertiary complexity. Importer: Grand Cru Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 974-2500