The real deal, an unctously sweet wine that tastes like it has some botrytis as well. The color of old gold, and oozing aromas of ripe apricots, nectarines, orange, tapioca and vanilla custard. Turns thick and glyceriney in the mouth, with fantastic density of flavor. It’s sweet but never cloying, thanks to the refreshing acids.——S.H.(12/1/2003)—— 93