Giulio Salvioni's 2018 Rosso di Montalcino La Cerbaiola is a silky and fine expression of Sangiovese, a welterweight offering that jabs with little punches of wild berry, tilled soil and blue flower. This Rosso accomplishes an important feat here: It is not a less intense expression of the mighty Tuscan grape, but rather a more nuanced one. That's exactly what a top-ranked Rosso di Montalcino should be. We're not looking for that characteristic Brunello power. This wine instead provides us with an approachable yet pleasurable experience, packed tight with varietal and territorial purity. This release weighed in at a relatively sprightly 10,133 bottles.