The 2011 Vallesanta Polago is a well-priced blend of Sangiovese (60%) and Montepulciano. It’s a certified organic wine (that sees no contact with oak) with fresh berry notes of cherry and dried blackberry. There’s a sweet note of sun-ripened forest berry or raspberry jam on the close. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2015. The Lago di Corbara area of Umbria represents one of the most unique and fascinating microclimates in Italy. Early morning lake fog creates the idea conditions for muffa nobile (botrytis cinerea) that is the secret behind the stunning dessert wines of this estate. Importer: Vinifera Imports Ltd.; www.viniferaimports.com

A superb value, the 2010 Polago (Sangiovese, Montepulciano) is another standout from Barberani. Juicy cherries, smoke, licorice and earthiness emerge from this juicy, exuberant red. The Polago is a great choice for drinking over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2014. Barberani excels with a number of wines, but the estate’s most distinctive offerings are the sweet wines. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The 2009 Polago (Sangiovese, Montepulciano) is an attractive wine well suited for near-term drinking. Bright red fruit linger on the pretty, balanced finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2013. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

This blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano is definitely on the ripe and jammy side with aromas of mature blackberry and fruit marmalade. It boasts a pretty ruby color with deep saturation and a velvety feel in the mouth with good structure and some sour notes on the close.——M.L.(5/1/2008)—— 84