Although with its vintage date, this is only 10 years’ old, don’t think of this as another 10-year-old aged tawny. Like most colheitas, aged in wood and not topped up with new wine as are aged tawnies, this is much more concentrated, like syrup. It has some sweetness, but the dominant character is dark Belgian chocolate. Very dense, with a very dry aftertaste.——R.V.(11/1/2007)—— 90

The aromas are all of long beneficial wood aging, the fruit character replaced by wood acidity, while keeping intense richness. The wine is fresh, its acidity tightened by concentration. A classic colheita, it has age, spice and a sinuous, smooth texture.——R.V.(2/1/2009)—— 91