The Bartolo Mascarello 2020 Langhe Nebbiolo is an accessible wine with ready aromas of dark fruit, earth, dried cassis and rusty nail. The wine shows pretty varietal clarity, but the presentation is especially informal and easy in this vintage. Fruit for this wine is acquired from a vineyard site in Treiso (Barbaresco). This hot-vintage expression ends with hints of ripe fruit and cherry confit.

The 2013 Langhe Nebbiolo is a gorgeous wine that offers a sneak peek of this excellent vintage. You might notice that Maria Teresa Mascarello lost her battle to spell Nebbiolo with one "b" as local tradition would dictate. No matter, the wine's beauty fully merits two capital Bs, if not more. This a delicate and feminine expression with pretty nuances of pressed flowers, roses and wild berries. Ethereal background notes of licorice and balsam herb also appear. The wine closes with crisp, but balanced acidity. Maria Teresa likens the 2013 vintage of Nebbiolo to the classic 2010 vintage.

The 2009 Langhe Nebiolo is one of the best kept secrets at Mascarello, as the wine is not officially imported to the US. Made from young, replanted vines in Cannubi, the Nebiolo sees a relatively short 8-10 days on the skins and is subsequently aged for 9 months in oak. It is a wine of remarkably purity, with gorgeous plummy fruit and a generous, crystalline finish. I don’t see this developing much from here, but readers will find no shortage of varietal, vintage and site-specific character in the immensely enjoyable Langhe Nebiolo. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. Bartolo Mascarello was a true icon in Piedmont. Although Mascarello was famous for his wines, he was at least as well known for his outspoken views on everything from winemaking to politics. Mascarello’s best wines were legendary, but the quality of what was in the bottle didn’t always live up to all of the hype. Against this backdrop, it must have been very difficult for Maria-Theresa Mascarello to take over the family winery after her father passed away a few years ago. Not only has Maria-Theresa Mascarello suceeded in living up to her father’s legacy, she has taken the wines to a new level entirely. The Baroli in particular have been nothing less than stunning here over the last few years. The rebirth of Bartolo Mascarello (the winery) is one of the great, unheralded success stories in Piedmont over the last few years. I urge readers to do whatever they can to taste these great wines. Those who have an interest should make a point to visit the winery and taste from barrel. I also include notes on the 2005 and 2006 Baroli for readers who are curious to see how the wines are developing. The only wine that is disappointing this year is the 2008 Freisa Monrobiolo. The Freisa undergoes a secondary fermentation in bottle and the summer of 2009 did not provide consistently warm enough temperatures for that to happen. The Mascarello Freisa is a staunchly traditional wine and often requires an especially forgiving palate, as is the case with the 2008. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

The 2008 Langhe Nebiolo is 100% Barolo-classified juice that Maria-Teresa Mascarello didn’t feel was up to the standards of her top label. It is a wonderful wine laced with fresh, floral aromatics, violets and lovely dark red fruits. The Nebiolo shows terrific integrity and structure, with a touch less depth than one might expect in a Barolo. Other than that, this is a gorgeous wine that fully captures the essence of the house style. Unfortunately, the Langhe Nebiolo (note the old-fashioned spelling with one ‘b’) is not imported into the US, but readers who can source the wine will not want to hesitate. It is a gem. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. This is the strongest set of new releases I have tasted at Bartolo Mascarello in some time. I would be hard pressed to name another winery that has made such important strides in improving quality and consistency in recent years. The 2006 Barolo is fantastic, as it often is, but this year I was especially taken with the quality of the entry-level wines. Everything about Mascarello remains rigidly traditional in style, with the sole exception of barrel aging for the Barolo, which is a touch shorter than it used to be. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999