This monopole has always been cited as one of Beaune's very finest terroirs, and the 2017 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Fèves has turned out very nicely. Bursting from the glass with a fragrant bouquet of raspberries, plums, peonies, bergamot and exotic spices, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and charming, with an enveloping core of fruit, succulent acids and melting tannins. But its charm is deceptive, as the underlying raw materials should vouchsafe at least two decades' longevity.

The 2016 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Fèves offers up aromas of dark berry fruit, baking chocolate, potpourri, exotic spices and smoked meats, followed by a medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy palate with powdery structuring tannins and a generous core of sapid fruit. This is a strong showing for this Chandon monopole.

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Feves from Chanson has a leafy, herbaceous nose and is rather stalky in style, though nicely defined and showing more fruit intensity than Chanson’s Clos des Mouches. The palate is medium-bodied with a saline entry, and is nicely balanced with broody, dark fruit. It feels a little angular and attenuates slightly on the finish, although there is appreciable sustain on the aftertaste, again, demonstrating a subtle marine/seaweed influence. Returning after five minutes, it has coalesced and gained more substance, subsuming that initial stalky element and showing some class.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Beaune Clos des Feves from Chanson has a ripe red cherry and bergamot-scented nose, slightly tinny at first, although that dissipates with time as it becomes more candied and pastille-like. The palate is structured, a little aloof on the entry. The acidity is nicely judged and there is good extraction on the finish that obviously needs another couple of years to mellow and coalesce. This is an discretely impressive showing.