While stewed, vegetal, and or bitter aspects diminished the virtues of several recent Bedell reds, their 2007 Merlot Reserve exhibits the ripeness and fresh fruit retention to stand up to its high percentage of new barrel. Aromas of cassis and blackberry, resin and tobacco lead to a palate whose thick texture and mingling of sweet berries with artichoke, resin and salt seems to mirror the wine’s visual opacity. There is considerable tannic numbing as well as bitterness here – and I question the value of cellaring the wine past the next 3-4 years on the hope that these will dissipate – but there is also enough sap and primary juiciness in the finish to welcome the next sip. The corresponding 2005 was marginally less complex or enticing. Film executive (“Lord of the Rings” producer) and art collector Michael Lynne has maintained a team under the direction of Bordeaux oenologist Pascal Marty Kip in which founding winemaker Kip Bedell remains involved as a consultant.Tel. (631) 734-7537

Bedell continues to raise the bar for Long Island Merlot with this offering. A rich, savory nose of meat, leather spice and dark berry leads into a poised balance of savory spice, rich fruit, acids and tannins. The wine has a friendly brightness about it but overall, is restrained and integrated.——S.K.(7/1/2008)—— 87

A finely crafted wine, but one that has some unripe elements. Sweet and supple in the mouth, this gets an A-plus for mouthfeel. But rhubarb and unripe red-fruit aromas and flavors mar the healthy chocolate, spice, vanilla, tobacco and blueberry. Finishes with plenty of oak flavor. ——M.D.(12/1/2006)—— 86