The 2010 Syrah Hudson T’n’S comes across as dark and brooding. Smoke, game, tar, scorched earth, bacon fat and black cherries are some of the many notes that emerge from this dramatic, large-scaled wine. Firm, yet well-integrated tannins frame a chewy finish layered with intense, delineated fruit. This is a highly promising wine that needs time. The T’n’S bottling comes from the southern part of the Hudson Vineyard. It was made with 45% whole clusters and a small addition of co-fermented Viognier (2%). The wine was not racked until it was bottled. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Morgan Twain-Peterson is one of the most impressive young winemakers I have ever met, and it’s not just because he grew up the son of a famous producer. Making wines at this level requires talent, passion, hard work and a great palate, none of which is easily inherited. Along with Mike Officer of Carlisle, Twain-Peterson is on a mission to rediscover what he calls California’s old-vine “heritage” vineyards. These historic sites planted by California’s early immigrants, often home to unknown field blends, remain some of the most fascinating vineyards in California. Officer and Twain-Peterson were tired of seeing these old sites gobbled up by industrial-scale wineries, so they decided to do something about it. Bravo. Vintage 2010 was not kind to Twain-Peterson. Five vineyards were totally scorched by the late summer heat spikes and the crop from those sites were lost. But back to the positive, and there is plenty of that here. This lineup includes several wines that deliver phenomenal quality for the money.Tel. (707) 364-8763; www.bedrockwineco.com