The 2010 Proprietary Red The Heavyweight is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc and 9% Petit Verdot, all from the Oak Knoll District. Its saturated purple color is followed by aromas of sweet cassis, licorice and camphor presented in a full-bodied, blockbuster wine that merits its name. Nevertheless, it is no thick, clumsy wine by any means. It should drink well for 10-12 years. The always interesting, creative Behrens Family operation high on Spring Mountain has fashioned another enticing portfolio of wines with some of the most creepy and funny labels in the wine business. The labels often belie just how serious this estate is about its vineyards and the quality of its wines. Tel. (707) 963-1774

The appropriately named 2009 Red Blend The Heavyweight captures the best of the Behrens house style. A big powerful wine, that nevertheless possesses dazzling structure, vibrancy and harmony, the 2008 impresses for its balance and total harmony. Blackberries, olives, spices, herbs, licorice, French oak and melted road tar all jump from the glass as this powerful, intense wine shows off its considerable personality. The Heavyweight is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and 10% Cabernet Franc. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. The Behrens Family Cabernets are all about textural richness and sheer opulence, qualities all of these wines have in spades. Tel. (707) 963-1774

The 2008 The Heavyweight is an intense, brooding red. Today it comes across as introspective and shut down. Black fruit, tar, smoke and grilled herbs struggle to emerge from a wall of tannins that is impenetrable. If the wine finds its center it may merit a higher score, but it does not look likely at this point. The Heavyweight is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. I was very impressed with the wines I tasted from Behrens Family Winery. These bold, racy wines are long on exuberance and sheer personality. Tel. (707) 963-1774; www.ernaschein.com

A blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 20% Petit Verdot, the 2007 The Heavyweight reveals intriguing notes of blueberries, black currants, licorice and forest floor. Rich and full-bodied with good balance, purity and overall texture, this silky-textured, fleshy 2007 should drink well for a decade or more. This Heavyweight is more like Mohammad Ali than Haystacks Calhoun. Les and Lisa Behrens are two of my favorite people in Napa Valley for the simple reason that they love wine and make gorgeously delicious wines with a fun approach that is reflected in their creative labels. They had issues with some of the synthetic corks they used early on, but they are now back to true corks and are, hopefully, on the road to even greater success and good fortune. All their wines now appear under the label Erna Schein. Les and Lisa are like truffle dogs in terms of sniffing out somewhat underrated top sites for Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Early on they discovered many vineyards that were later swiped away by people with more money. However, the Behrens still have a loaded deck of Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards. If you haven’t yet discovered these wines, it’s about time you do. If there is a future in the wine world for real people, Lisa and Les Behrens have to succeed. Tel. (707) 963-1774; www.ernaschein.com