The 2008 Nerello Mascalese Il Monovitigno offers up dried flowers, dried cherries and spices on a medium-bodied frame. The wine turns delicate and ethereal on the finish. My sense is that the modest structure will support only near-term cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. This is a solid set of wines from Benanti, although there are fewer thrilling wines this year than is often the case.Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

Il Monovitigno is a pure expression of Nerello Mascalese—Mt. Etna’s most promising variety—with aromas of black olive, Indian spice, mesquite, black fruit and volcanic ash. It’s tonic and fresh in the mouth and encourages a pairing with spicy meat recipes. ——M.L.(12/1/2009)—— 90

The 2005 Nerello Mascalese Il Monovitigno captures the essence of this great indigenous variety in its striking perfume and deep layers of dark fruit. This fresh, incredibly vivid wine possesses tons of clarity in a layered, pure style of breathtaking beauty. Ideally the wine needs a few years in the cellar to develop the full range of tertiary aromas and flavors, but it is incredibly beautiful today. The wine should be opened at least 30 minutes prior to serving, as it needs some air to gain focus and blow off some small imperfections. Still, this is a captivating wine from Benanti. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2017. I can’t think of too many properties in Sicily, or Italy, for that matter, that turn out such a large number of outstanding wines. The family-run Benanti winery is located on the slopes of Mount Etna. These volcanic soils are the source for most of the grapes, although some of the Nero d’Avola comes from Pachino while the Zibibbo is grown on the island of Pantelleria. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these unique wines.Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

The estate’s 2001 Nerello Mascalese is another lovely bottle. It has acquired early tertiary notes of leather, tobacco and menthol that complement its core of perfumed fruit. Silky tannins add a further measure of elegance to this noble, pure wine of exquisite grace. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. Benanti is making some of the most compelling wines coming out of Sicily’s re-discovered Mount Etna appellation. These dramatic, old vines are grown on the slopes of the volcano and offer plenty of site-specific character. Most of the wines are made from indigenous varieties although international grapes are used in a few of the reds. I can’t add much more, except to urge readers to discover the extraordinary wines of Benanti.Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524