The 2004 Lamoremio is a unique red made from Nero d’Avola, Nerello Mascalese and Cabernet Sauvignon, a combination that works beautifully here. Sweet scents of tobacco, herbs, dried flowers, dried cherries, plums and mint emerge from the glass, while fine, silky tannins frame the long finish. This is a relatively mid-weight Lamoremio that is already a touch forward and probably not built for the long haul. Still, it should drink beautifully for at least a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. Benanti is a reference-point producer for beautiful wines from the Etna and Pachino, two of Sicily’s most privileged spots. It’s pretty hard to go wrong with any of these new releases. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

The 2003 Lamoremio is a blend of equal parts of Nero d’Avola, Nerello Mascalese, and Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 18 months in French oak. All of the Etna qualities that are also typical of the estate’s other wines are found here, but the presence of Cabernet Sauvignon adds an additional level of complexity and density. This sexy, voluptuous wine reveals layers of vibrant, dark fruit, sweet spices, smoke, earthiness and leather in a full-bodied, highly rewarding style. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018. I can’t think of too many properties in Sicily, or Italy, for that matter, that turn out such a large number of outstanding wines. The family-run Benanti winery is located on the slopes of Mount Etna. These volcanic soils are the source for most of the grapes, although some of the Nero d’Avola comes from Pachino while the Zibibbo is grown on the island of Pantelleria. Readers should do whatever they can to taste these unique wines. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524

The 2002 Lamoremio (equal parts Nero d’Avola, Nerello Mascalese, and Cabernet Sauvignon) is powerful, rich and decadent, especially in the way the varieties complement each other. I am not usually a fan of these kinds of blends but here the wine is perfectly balanced. The oak still needs a few years to integrate, but this is a very promising wine. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020. Benanti is making some of the most compelling wines coming out of Sicily’s re-discovered Mount Etna appellation. These dramatic, old vines are grown on the slopes of the volcano and offer plenty of site-specific character. Most of the wines are made from indigenous varieties although international grapes are used in a few of the reds. I can’t add much more, except to urge readers to discover the extraordinary wines of Benanti. Importer: JA-AR Imports, Ltd., Stellar Cellars, East Brunswick, NJ; tel. (732) 762-9524