The wilder side of Pinot and the vintage come through in the 2010 Pinot Noir Bella Una. Leather, spices and mint all jump from the glass, but ultimately the more gamy, animal notes tend to dominate. The Bella Una is solid, but also a bit rough around the edges. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Tel. (707) 526-4441

This block selection seems to have been selected on the basis of ripeness. Bright, jammy raspberry, cherry, pomegranate and persimmon fruit flavors explode on the palate, all spiced up with cinnamon and cloves. The finish is almost sweet in new French oak. Now–2014.——S.H.(12/1/2011)—— 89

This is a good, solid Pinot Noir, a little rustic and direct, but offering lots of drinking pleasure. It’s dry and silky, with rich black cherry, raspberry, cola and sandalwood flavors. Drink over the next year or two. ——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 88