The 2010 Pinot Noir La Pommeraie is the most exuberant of these 2010 Pinots. Black cherries, mint, plums, tobacco, licorice and incense are all very much present. The Pommeraie speaks to balance with notable eloquence, but it isn’t quite as exciting as the Savoy. Sweet, silky tannins support hints of dried cherry, cinnamon and savory herbs. This pretty Pinot is best enjoyed over the next few years. The La Pommeraie is sourced from the Martinelli family’s famed Zio Tony ranch. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2016. Tel. (707) 526-4441

If you’re looking for a gorgeous Pinot to drink now, here it is. The wine is dry and silky and complex, offering waves of black cherry jam, red currant, licorice, cola and sandalwood flavors. Tastes elegant and complex. Now–2013.——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 92