A little rustic, with a briary, brambly mouthfeel, but it’s a good example of a Sonoma County Zinfandel. The winery says the vines are old, and there are deep, concentrated flavors of wild forest berries, shriveled raisins, licorice, pine tar, grilled beef and black peppers. Because of the roughness, you’ll want to give this wine a few hours of decanting. ——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 88