You never quite know what you’re getting in a “Pet,” but in this case the wine rises to the height of what the variety can do. It’s very dark, and absolutely dry, with substantial tannins although it’s soft in acidity. The flavors are ripe and rich. They range from black cherries through blackberries, coffee and chocolate, with a sprinkling of white pepper. ——S.H.(11/15/2004)—— 90