White stone fruits, some smoke and toast, and ample spice makes the entrance to this wine really inviting. There’s plenty of richness to the mouth, which is jammed with lemon, lime and a balancing dryness not unlike chalk. The fade is pure and dry, offering long nuances of spicy oak and white pepper. It’s a wine that’s integrated and satisfying. ——W.E.(8/1/2002)—— 90