This retains just a hint of green to the finish, but it more than compensates by being single vineyard, single varietal—the most pure and true expression of terroir. There is no place to hide in such a wine, and this is stripped naked. The fruit leans to tart blueberry, wrapped in leaf and a bit of stem; tannins are chewy and the finish is light but complex, showing soy, smoke, tar and leaf.——P.G.(3/1/2008)—— 89