Fouquet’s unabashedly sweet 2009 Vouvray Le Cuvee Alexandre smells of hazelnut paste, burnt sugar icing, musk, sweat, nut oils … and maybe even tears or other bodily emanations, too, but in any event distinctly saline. In the mouth, it reminds me of candied citrus rind, nougat, and salt water taffy, highly confectionary yet with enough bitter and saline counterpoint to steer clear of cloying. That said, this is very much of its vintage, and its opulent, sweet finish of nut brittle, marzipan, honey, and candied citrus does not leave much room for refreshment or mineral nuance. I suspect, though, that this will have potential to age for 15-20 years, and eventually its overt sense of sweetness will receded, quite possibly revealing further complexity. For now, it could be served as a dessert wine provided the desert is not too sweet or high in acidity. It was good to be able to taste an expanded range of Bernard Fouquet’s many cuvees, some if which – I am ashamed to admit – I had never tasted before, having never paid him a visit. Fouquet has followed the fashionable tendency to abolish labeling with “sec” or “demi-sec” as a taste indicator (a trend notably resisted by Fouquet’s two best-known neighbors and arguably the only ones making even more exciting wine than his, namely Foreau and Huet). As with many growers’ German Rieslings, the surest hint to the wines’ degrees of sweetness is the levels of alcohol indicated on the label. But with one exception that he does label “sec,” it’s true that from 2009 none of Fouquet’s still wines taste totally dry.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Fouquet's finest two parcels of vines reacted differently to the late season's warm weather. The Marigny vineyard obtained concentration through shriveling (passerillage), and his parcel of Girardieres through botrytis. Equal quantities of each were blended to craft the first rate 1997 Vouvray Cuvee Alexandre. This massive wine (200 grams residual sugar per liter) has plenty of acidity (12 grams) to maintain its freshness and focus. It reveals aromas reminiscent of caramelized pears, apples, and bergamots as well as a medium-to-full-bodied, complex character. Red fruits, raisins, dried figs, quince, and sweet minerals can be found throughout its personality and extensive, penetrating finish. Anticipated maturity: now-2020+.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel (610) 486-0800.