A surprising disappointment from Serveau is the 1991 Chambolle-Musigny-Les Amoureuses. Year in and year out this is the pick of the Serveau portfolio, but the 1991 tastes uncommonly light, even by Serveau's delicate stylistic standards, with hard tannin and a compact, short, malnourished finish. There is just not enough fruit and depth to balance out the wine's harshness.Serveau is known for his light, delicate, lacy style of Pinot Noir. In 1991, his wines range from merely competent, to two very good premier crus from Chambolle-Musigny. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY.

Serveau generally produces a light, lacy style of Pinot Noir. His top 1990s are supple, smooth-textured, graceful, seductive wines. The Chambolle-Musigny-Les Amoureuses reveals a deep ruby color, a spicy, mineral, raspberry and vanillin-scented nose, medium-bodied, attractively rich, supple flavors, and a spicy, clean, vividly pure finish. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Importer: Peter Vezan Selections, various American importers.