From the Valpantena area, or the easternmost stretch of the Valpolicella wine zone, comes this very approachable and well-priced Ripasso from the historic Bertani winery. Aromas here include bresaola, smoked bacon, ripe fruit, plums, prunes and mesquite wood. The wine is more subtle and elegant in the mouth and ends with a playful touch of cracked black pepper.——M.L.(12/1/2009)—— 87