The 2009 Ontogeny is a rich, radiant wine endowed with expressive layers of dark red fruit, flowers and licorice. It shows gorgeous fleshiness and juice in an up-front, approachable style that is very appealing. There is more than enough structure for this to drink well for a number of years. In 2009 the blend is 45% Cabernet Franc, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Russell Bevan exudes energy and exuberance, both of which come through in spades in his fruit-forward, showy wines. Bevan likes to name wines after people who have been instrumental to his success. While that is certainly admirable, it isn’t always easy to following the progression of his wines for what are essentially the same cuvees with different names, depending on the year.Tel. (707) 332-2918

The stunning 2008 Ontogeny Proprietary Red (a blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot) boasts an opaque purple color along with notes of kirsch, blueberries, boysenberries, mocha and subtle smoke. Expansive on the palate as well as opulent and fleshy with tremendous fruit, depth and richness, there is some tannin lurking in the background, but it is largely concealed by the luxurious fruit component. Already showy and complex, this stunning red can be drunk over the next decade. One of the major fruit sources for Bevan has been the Showket Vineyard in Napa, which was recently sold to Peter Michael. Although last year I gave superb reviews to two of Bevan Cellars’ wines, this year’s extensive portfolio was one of the revelations of my tastings. A small artisanal operation in Santa Rosa run by Russell Bevan and his partner, Victoria Descrescenco, Bevan Cellars has assembled a stunning line-up of wines. I think the tasting notes say it all, but I can’t recommend this up-and-coming producer’s wines highly enough.Tel. (707) 235-3062; www.bevancellars.com