Shows the aggressive tannins that often mark this unruly variety, but that’s part of the charm. It’s a big, potent wine, muscular in blackberry, black currant, leather and black pepper flavors, and best of all it’s dry without high alcohol. A very nice wine to drink now with barbecue or beef stew made with the wine or one similar to it. ——S.H.(12/31/2010)—— 88