Cheval and Champoux. Snappy and crisply defined, this sharp-edged wine opens with tight berry flavors, some chalky acids, and grainy, stony tannins. It shows less flesh than the other reds, more acid, and a stiffness to the tannins. After extensive airing the vanilla flavors come out, along with an interesting spice. The fruit is clean and ripe, and the balance, except possibly for the chalky acids, is right on.——P.G.(8/1/2007)—— 88