A little scattered and jumbled at first, but once things settle this Bordeaux blend is impressive. Scents of clove, blackberry and grape candy are sincere, while the palate houses blueberry, cassis and other black-fruit flavors. The feel is tannic and a bit choppy, but the ribald finish of bacon, leather, vanilla and resin is convincing. Drink now through 2011. ——M.S.(12/31/2008)—— 91